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by Burt Umbre

With Fall still weeks away, fashion designers are still thinking about their vacations and places other than here. The hot spots that inspired this season's haute couture shows were often distant and dangerous: Genoa, the ever-present Middle East, Central Africa and East Timor.

But behind the folklore and ethnic cleansing inspirations there were fashion trends that are easily adapted to real life. Putting dresses over army pants was a powerful new look, as was a kevlar/chiffon combo. Miniskirts were revived, but with automatic weapon accessories, making them seem dynamic and modern. At one major house pants were fitted with everything, from tweed trouser suits through evening outfits where legs were lightly veiled in shrapnel. A dress was also teamed with razor-wire cut jeans.

After all the see-through outfits of last season, the bared back is now the centre of attention. Addenine Eddyo's draped dresses slung from a burlap strap were deceptively simple, and nicely accentuated ribs showing from starvation or anorexia. The new evening dress design geometry includes sleeves, which were gathered or flared, in a morphing of Renaissance with shroud styles. Barbed wire is the new fur, with the Paris maestro Andre Lumierre excelling himself with extraordinary effects and colors.

All these "hommages" to hot spots help draw public attention to these troubled areas of our globe.

Burt's Archive

 
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